JB Royal Original
JB Royal Original resin is a two-part 1:1 casting viscous. JB Royal Original resin is an epoxy casting resin which is viscous and will flow like thick syrup or honey. It works great for casting, jewelry making, laminating, and encapsulating. It cures clear and for best results a pressure pot is suggested.
WARNING: Causes skin irritation; may cause an allergic skin reaction; causes serious eye irritation; may cause respiratory irritation. Avoid breathing mist or vapors. Use only in a well- ventilated are. Wear protective gloves, protective clothing, and eye protection as needed.
IF ON SKIN: Wash with plenty of soap and water. Take off contaminated clothing and wash before reuse.
IF IN EYES: Rinse cautiously with water for several minutes. Remove contact lenses, if present and easy to do. Continue rinsing as needed.
IF EYE IRRITATION PERSISTS: Get medical advice.
Dispose of contents/container to local, regional, national, and international regulations.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
DIRECTIONS FOR USE:
- Warm casting molds if applicable.
- Using a mixing cup, add parts A and B and then mix well for THREE minutes or until no striations can be seen.
- If using separate cups for measuring, pour resin into the hardener cup.
- Mix in any dyes or pigments if needed.
- If further thinning of the resin is required then gently warm the mix with a heat gun or warming plate.
- Pour resin in a thin stream holding the cup approximately 6” or more above the casting mold.
- If no pressure casting is used then gently warm resin again with heat gun to help release bubbles.
- For best results, place casting in a pressure pot at 40 PSI or higher and allow resin to cure for at least 12 hours before releasing pressure and demolding.
- Cure times will vary depending on ambient temperature.
- For clean-up, use Acetone or a specialty Epoxy Remover.
1. Mix the resin in a HDPE painter’s mixing cup with ratio markings. These can be found at most hardware, paint stores, or autobody supply shops. The ratio is 1:1 resin to hardener by volume, NOT weight. White caps are A and black are B. If the weather is cold you may want to warm the part A in a double boiler bath or some hot water keeping the water temp below 120°F.
2. Use a paint mixer at low RPM to mix the resin until all striations are gone. It may help to use a light
overhead and behind you to see these lines. The mixer looks like a propeller with a circle around the outer edge and are attached to a drill. When attaching the mixer make sure that the drills direction advances the blades lower edge leading the direction of turning. Mixing in this way should result in very few bubbles.
Note: If you find you have excessive bubbles it may be related to one of the following issues:
a. RPM of drill is too high.
b. Lifting the mixer up and down in the column and allowing more air to be dragged in.
c. Tilting the cup back and forth too much and again allowing air to be pulled in by the mixer.
d. Using a wide cup with a small amount of resin so that the mixer cannot be submerged properly. e. The drill is moving the blade in the wrong direction.
3. Once mixed use a heat gun on low heat and gently warm the resin. This will make the resin more fluid and increase the pressure of the bubbles to want to escape from the resin. Be very careful not to “cook” or “smoke” the resin. Keep the heat gun moving back and forth quickly and don’t keep it blowing on a single spot and don’t overheat in general. This can cause the resin to cure too quickly, thicken, and likely be brittle or unable to be poured.
4. When pouring the resin pour it “high and thin”. Hold the cup 6” or more above the mold and pour a very thin stream in the edge/corner of the mold. This helps by allowing air bubbles to escape as you are pouring.
5. Once in the mold another gentle pass with the heat gun helps as well.
6. Another tip for helping remove bubbles is using an orbital disk sander with no paper set next to molds to help vibrate out any potential bubbles.
7. Place in a pressure pot if you will be using one.